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02-14-2011, 03:56 PM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 85
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Marine glue
I getting ready to install my bait pump into my Steath 12. but I am new to this and not sure what type of glue to use.
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02-14-2011, 04:18 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,921
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3M 5200 fast cure. Wear gloves.
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02-14-2011, 04:29 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,385
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I am a big fan of Marine Goop, OEX has it. I've searched Home Depot, Dixiline, and Lowes and none of the others have it. Steve, is 3M 5200 better? I'd be willing to try that also.
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02-14-2011, 04:33 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alhambra
Posts: 506
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i have also found marine goop at true value hardware stores and west marine. it is something that is not found in every hardware stores; go figure
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02-14-2011, 04:58 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 143
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This last week I installed a FF using 3M 5200 and was really surprised that it has taken 5 full days to set. The 5200 was still tacky as of yesterday afternoon and I put it on last Thursday. I'm hoping that it will be completely cured by this evening so that I can put the kayak in it's rack. The label says it should cure in 24 hours but it was still just goo. This is after I dragged the kayak into the yard Saturday so it would get air, and then when I moved it (delicately) back into the garage that evening I put a fan blowing air through it (just in case this was an issue with circulation). This was a sponge mount cut-away method for the transducer thru-hull.
I used 5200 on a Prowler 13 FF install a few years back and don't remember it taking this long. |
02-14-2011, 05:16 PM | #6 |
TB Metal Art
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 653
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West Marine carries an epoxy that is made for polyethylene repairs but it does require that you heat treat the surface. I just used this to put in an automati bilge pump made by Whale. Cost 20$ but get about a large syringe full (2 parts). Yellow and white package. Just my2cents
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02-14-2011, 06:30 PM | #7 |
Currently @ MLO Territory
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Under the Shadow
Posts: 2,290
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Have OEX do it, or else you will sink your new boat.
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02-15-2011, 07:33 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,509
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02-15-2011, 09:19 AM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 143
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02-14-2011, 09:37 PM | #10 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,921
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Quote:
I like Goop for pretty much everything. Its easy to use, its is temperature resistant, inexpensive, its tensile strength is waaaay higher than the 5200 (3500 psi vs 600 psi) and it stretches 600% when cured, with is perfect for kayaks which flex and expand and contract all day. There are pretty much only 2 formulas for Goop. The ones with a UV inhibitor, and those without. While you may not be able to find Marine Goop @ Every home Depot or Lowes, they all usually carry a UV resistant formula of Goop- Lawn and Garden usually. However, I think its way cooler to support the local guys. Price is good too. http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/...ne-GOOP/Detail If you want something that specifically says "For use on through hull connections below the water line", 5200 is for you. I've done through hull pumps with both Goop, and the 5200, and I've never had a single drop leak with either. Prep is key for both. Sanding the area you are working on with a coarse grit sandpaper will be sufficient. Some yaks will require more sanding than others, because they have an agent left on them that help release them from the molds they are made on. Just make sure it feels rough, and you'll be fine. I've had to sell several yaks with the transducer still installed because I literally could not remove it from the goop on the yak. The plastic of the yak was breaking before the goop was giving. I wouldn't use any hard epoxies on a yak. They move too much, and anything brittle will fail over time. Keep in mind. The threads of the pump and connection are actually making the compression of the connection and holding everything together, the Goop or 5200 is just there to seal the small stuff. Measure 2X, cut once is very important. Make sure you have a snug fit, especially for something below the waterline. I'm pretty sure my through hull 'ducer would be bone dry, even without the 5200 globed all over it. With all this in mind, If in doubt, let the Pro's @ OEX do it. You don't want to have even a little bit of doubt about the safety of your yak when you are a few miles out. If you are new to this game, I'd especially recommend taking it in to the guys @ OEX to have it done right the first time. Geez, did I just write all that? Fook, its time to go fishing! |
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02-14-2011, 09:46 PM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: garden grove
Posts: 308
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i use plumbers goop from home depot.works good and inexpensive
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02-15-2011, 12:10 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 552
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3M 5200 is specifically intended for marine applications, it's the traditional go to in the yachting community, sticks to almost anything, is completely waterproof, and stands the test of time.
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02-15-2011, 06:53 AM | #13 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 33
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pump
Make sure you cut the pump shaft short enough that the strainer doesn't bottom out. Use marine goop to fill the recessed area of the strainer it will not leak.
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02-15-2011, 08:12 AM | #14 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,385
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Quote:
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02-15-2011, 11:51 AM | #15 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 85
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thanks everyone for your suggestions. I think I'm going to take it to OEX.
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02-15-2011, 12:44 PM | #16 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 33
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It's pretty simple. Watch this a few times and you'll be doing it in your sleep
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snGUpj2MAao |
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