Share Your Innovations

[dsafety]

It was a dark and stormy night, (really, thanks to the first big storm of the season). At times like this I like to go to the shop and futz around. I tinker with things and sometimes come up with an idea or two on how to make the things I use work better. I call on my inner-Macgyver. We all have a little MacGyver in us. You remember the TV show where the guy saves the world every week with duct tape and a swiss army knife.

Anyway, as I was tinkering with my new Hobie Livewell I thought it might be fun to ask everyone to share some of the cool ideas and mods that they have come up with over the years. I remember reading of a few great innovations in this forum. A couple that come to mind are:

Adding a weight to the bottom of the Hobie peddles so they remain upright all the time.

A video camera mounted on a short mast attached to a stern mounted bait tank to record the day's events.

I am sure our community has come up with dozens of simple but wonderful ideas that help make the kayak fishing experience better and more fun. If you have one of those ideas, post it in this thread and share it with the rest of us. I'll go first.

We all know that we should leash our gear when out on the water. Sometimes, however, there is just no good place to clip a leash to a rod. With this problem in mind, I came up with an easy-to-make connection loop that can be installed on just about any kind of gear we carry on our kayaks. The thing takes a couple minutes to make and the materials cost less than a quarter. Behold the LEASH LOOP!

All you need to make one of these is a four inch piece of coated wire leader, a similar size piece of shock cord, a crimp sleeve and a crimper.

Materials-Needed.jpg

Cut a 4" piece of the leader. Tie the shock cord so that you have a suitable size band that will stretch to fit around your rod, (or whatever else you want to use this thing for). Make sure that when the shock cord contracts, it fits tightly around your rod. After trimming the shock cord be sure to burn the end so the nylon does not fray.

Tied-Shock-Cord.jpg

Thread the leader through the crimping sleeve, loop the leader around the shock cord and thread it back through the sleeve. Tighten this loop so it is snug against the shock cord. Make a larger loop with the other end of the leader and thread that end through the sleeve. Crimp the sleeve and trim the excess leader.

Crimping.jpg

And you are done.

Finished-Loop-1.jpg

Slide the shock cord ring over your rod.

Installed Loop.jpg

GO FISHING!

BTW, as shown in the photo above, the Leash Loop can also double as a place to hook your lure to keep it out of the way when not in use.

I have a couple other simple projects that I will post soon. If you have something to share, let us see it.

Bob

[Darrin]

Cool idea, I just clip my leash to a zip tie below the first guide and above the reel (Same zip tie that I use when I go LR fishing). The zip tie serves as a rod holder on the LR boats (loops on the fish sack hooks by the bait tanks) and a leash clip for my Kayak.

[1Flatfish]

You might want to do something like this to keep kelp polyps, grass and crap out of the intake tube of your new bait tank. I used pure silver wire bought from a bead shop so it won't corrode. Not as simple as a screen, but I like the way it looks and works. I know it won't fall off.



Also, be careful of the collar around the outflow tube. It can come loose if your not careful.

Wayne

[dsafety]

I have not been happy with the leashes that I have found for sale. The ones using shock cord are too heavy and the cord exerts too much pressure when stretched. The ones that work well are kind of expensive. In today's class, I will show you how to make one at home for almost nothing.

Like most people, I have a bunch of old cell phone car chargers hanging around. Every new phone I get seems to require a different plug and therefore a new car charger. For this project we will be putting the curly cables from those old charges to a new use.

Start by cutting both ends off an old cable. If you don't have one, you can use a phone handset cable, ($5 at Home Depot).
Cut.jpg

Plastic snap clips that are easy to use are hard to find. I found something usable at REI, ($2 for a pair of clips). These clips have to be modified a bit. Spread the clip apart and pull the strap attach point out.

Slide a 3/4" piece of shrink wrap over the cord and then thread the cord through the hole in the snap clip.

Slide a large crimp sleeve over the end of the cord and pull the end of the cord as far through the sleeve as you can. You may have to trim some of the cord material in order to get it to fit into the sleeve. Trim the cord so it is flush with the end of the sleeve
Sleave.jpg

Take a sheet metal screw and screw it into the open end of the sleeve leaving about 1/16" gap between the screw head and the sleeve. Crimp the sleeve over the screw threads.
End.jpg

Spread the clip again and pull the cord so that the sleeve slides into the clip body and the screw head seats itself in place.
Assembly.jpg

Crimp the bottom of the sleeve around the cord. Slide the shrink wrap as far as you can up toward the screw and heat to shrink the material.

The final result will look like this.
Finished-Leash.jpg


I like this leash better than any I have seen in stores. It stretches to over seven feet and recoils out of the way. Perfect for rods. You could make shorter ones for things like gaffs, pliers or Hobie Mirage drives that are used in more confined areas.

Bob

[eDUBz]

Cool stuff.

[Billy V]

OK.....Mr. and Mrs. Sea Bass the time is almost upon us so I will share a little.

These are (2) of the finest improvised Kayak Fishing tools I have used.
The first is a New Silent Kelp Clip for those WSB missions that take you into the spaghetti. This clip takes up No room at all, nor does it make any metallic sound.

Its very easy to use, Just grab 2 or 3 single strands of kelp and Cuff it. Tie the other end to your kayak.
It will not slip do to wind or current, and you do not have to pile 25 lbs. of salad on your Kayak to anchor.
-A joint venture between Me and Elbie.
-----------------------
Item #2 is a De- Hooking Tool for your Sabiki Rig.
Hold it by the Cork End and use the hook end to grab the line in front of your hooked Mackerel. Just lift and it will invert the hook letting the Mackerel fall off.
Never again will you have to deal with pliers, or your bare hand around those nasty hooks. This thing work like magic.
Yes, it floats.

-I first started using a piece of coat hanger, and making 2 tight loops and a short shaft with the hooked end. I would wear it on my finger like a ring.
I gave away a bunch of them at the launch every time somebody would ask..What the hell is that ? ..I gave them one.
-This type you see here is the 2nd generation version that has been improved upon by Rick Robinson. Its a Brass Rod (no rust) and a Champagne Cork. He now operates a factory in China and sells them by the gross.

[AI_Fish]

I did not have the wire, and needed something asap, so used 100# mono.

Originally Posted by 1Flatfish

You might want to do something like this to keep kelp polyps, grass and crap out of the intake tube of your new bait tank. I used pure silver wire bought from a bead shop so it won't corrode. Not as simple as a screen, but I like the way it looks and works. I know it won't fall off.



Also, be careful of the collar around the outflow tube. It can come loose if your not careful.

Wayne

[Fiskadoro]

I hoopnet a bunch and I made some gadgets for my FND for hoop netting.

Here's the general rig:


It consists of a lobster box in the rear, pedestal for electronics up front and a lighted boom with a block for pulling up the nets.

Here's the box it's held in by the straps of the seat and the clips.


It doubles as a net rack, here it is with one of my folding nets I made for it. (my nets are smaller then the Danielson and Promars but taller which makes them easier to pull from a kayak)



and it's got more then enough room to store a limit of bugs or for that matter my hoop floats.


The boom is pretty simple: It has a custom block that I made on the end.




It's lighted with red LEDS for sorting lobsters
Wiyth the red light you can see the bugs but it does not effect your night vision

The little pedestal gives me a place for my spot and GPS and or fishfinder.


The block lines up right with the edge of the yak so you can pull as hard as you want and it doesn't try to pull you over.

The Boom also pulls out of it's holder so you can store it under the deck when your not pulling nets. The pedestal itself comes out by just pulling a few nuts at the base, and a bolt.




I have a small pedestal that sits on the main hatch for fishing. I just switch out the rear storage for an oversized bait tank I made and I'm good for fishing Sardines all day for halibut in the bay.


The FND is no longer my Kayak of choice for most fishing unless I'm fishing local and want to carry a ton of bait but it's great for hooping. I've Hooped this setup for three years now and it's good enough for what I want to do with it. I can't think of anything I'd add or change on it.

It just makes hooping so much easier, and because of that I can hoop longer when the hooping is slow.....

Jim

[mrJB]

Cheap Tricks (No, not the 70’s rock ’n’ roll band)

I enjoy kayak fishing not only for the thrill of catching fish while seated six inches off the ocean in the middle of nowhere, but also for the many creative ways of outfitting the kayak and creating kayak-related fishing gear. Saving a few bucks doesn’t hurt either. A few that work for me:




PlugCvr.jpg>>
1 - Fishfinder (Eagle) plug protection: A 3/8” screw protector cover, available in the parts bins at Home Depot or Lowe’s, for around $.50. For use on those days when you don’t attach your fishfinder or if you store your yak outside.



ReelCvr.jpg>>
2 - Reel Covers: Rather than pay eight bucks and up for a reel cover, which I’ll probably lose anyway, I make my own for about $1.25 from one of those soda/beer can neoprene insulators, and a piece of Velcro strap. Can coolers about $1 at Walmart and a pack of the Velcro straps for a few bucks from Walmart, Home Depot, etc. These insulated can “koozies” seem to fit calcuttas, lunas, and small avets pretty well and can help eliminate a lot of future “boat rash” on the reel.



3 - Sacrificial Wear Strips: Several layers of duct tape strips on the keel of your yak, and some transparent packing tape strips on the critical areas of that nice gold baitcaster you just got. They’ll need to be replaced every few trips.



ScotchGuard.jpg>>
4 - Rod Cork Grip Protection: I spray the cork grips on my inshore rods with Scotchguard, the type for outdoor goods like tents and such. Helps make the grips easier to clean and prevents blood and grime from getting ground into the cork. Will take overnight to dry but doesn’t seem to discolor the cork.


>PaddleLeash.jpg>
5 - Paddle Leash: Can’t seem to figure out why someone would spend big bucks on some super light, high-end paddle, just to save a few ounces of weight, and then tether it to the yak with a 10 ounce wet leash. I make mine from some thin poly rope – weighs next to nothing and doesn’t stay wet.

[dgax65]

Jim Day takes the tittle as KING OF ALL KAYAK MODIFICATION.

He should have his own shown on TLC or the Discovery Channel - American Kayak. He could be the Paul Sr., Paul Jr. and Vinnie all wrapped into one.

Nice work.

[Iceman]

12 volt portable fits in the sail mount with a RAM wedge mount. 5 amp 12 volt has about 20 hours run time between charging. extra transducer cable coiled inside case as well as an in line fuse. transducer arm is starboard.

[erinoo]

Interesting...Andy, with the transducer directly in the water are you getting that much better of a signal vs through the haul...??? en

[HobieScot]

Originally Posted by mrJB

Cheap Tricks (No, not the 70’s rock ’n’ roll band)

I enjoy kayak fishing not only for the thrill of catching fish while seated six inches off the ocean in the middle of nowhere, but also for the many creative ways of outfitting the kayak and creating kayak-related fishing gear. Saving a few bucks doesn’t hurt either. A few that work for me:




Attachment 1699>>
1 - Fishfinder (Eagle) plug protection: A 3/8” screw protector cover, available in the parts bins at Home Depot or Lowe’s, for around $.50. For use on those days when you don’t attach your fishfinder or if you store your yak outside.



Attachment 1700>>
2 - Reel Covers: Rather than pay eight bucks and up for a reel cover, which I’ll probably lose anyway, I make my own for about $1.25 from one of those soda/beer can neoprene insulators, and a piece of Velcro strap. Can coolers about $1 at Walmart and a pack of the Velcro straps for a few bucks from Walmart, Home Depot, etc. These insulated can “koozies” seem to fit calcuttas, lunas, and small avets pretty well and can help eliminate a lot of future “boat rash” on the reel.



3 - Sacrificial Wear Strips: Several layers of duct tape strips on the keel of your yak, and some transparent packing tape strips on the critical areas of that nice gold baitcaster you just got. They’ll need to be replaced every few trips.



Attachment 1701>>
4 - Rod Cork Grip Protection: I spray the cork grips on my inshore rods with Scotchguard, the type for outdoor goods like tents and such. Helps make the grips easier to clean and prevents blood and grime from getting ground into the cork. Will take overnight to dry but doesn’t seem to discolor the cork.


>Attachment 1702>
5 - Paddle Leash: Can’t seem to figure out why someone would spend big bucks on some super light, high-end paddle, just to save a few ounces of weight, and then tether it to the yak with a 10 ounce wet leash. I make mine from some thin poly rope – weighs next to nothing and doesn’t stay wet.

I know the original post is an oldie but a goodie but here is my take on how to save the cork on our rods. I picked up some electrical shrink tape and slid it over the cork then used a heat gun to shrink it into place. Now it has a water proof cover and nice grip to it. I've been doing this for years.

My second tool I use as a de hooker for shark or other fish you don't want to mess with trying to remove the hook from. It's basically an adjustable painters pole with an eyelet screwed and gorilla glued into the end then bent into the shape I wanted. It adjusts out to 4 feet if needed. It's basically a cheap knock off of a commercial one. But I wanted it to be adjustable so I can use it on the different types of boats I fish on. It works pretty well and keeps you from having to cut the leader and leave the hook in the Shark when you release it. Just hook the line and slide down to the bend in the hook and give a couple of hard sharp downward strokes and the hook usually pop out without much fuss!
[ATTACH][ATTACH]image.jpg[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[Useful Idiot]

My innovations?

Ultimate Bait Tank
Battery Box
Shortened Sabiki Rod

Where's my royalties!?

[dgax65]

Brian
Don't forget your greatest engineering feat - the combination rod holder/evaporative cooling system/roll bar.



That thing was super bitchin'

[GREYAK]

For coilcord, try the 99cent stores. Sometimes they have it, sometimes they don't

[bluesquids]

The Bait Bazooka.

[dsafety]

Bump

Come on guys, you have to have some more good stuff to share.

Bob

[AM3R1CN]

Originally Posted by dgax65

Brian
Don't forget your greatest engineering feat - the combination rod holder/evaporative cooling system/roll bar.



That thing was super bitchin'

color is king!
the anti-shark yak

[dsafety]

If you have a Hobie Livewell or any other bait tank fed from the bottom of the tank through a scupper hole, you have probably run into the problem of your bait tank draining when you turn the pump off, (or your battery dies). Here is a simple solution that problem.

You will need a quick disconnect fitting, (female hose thread to male pipe thread), a female to male threaded El fitting and a short piece of plastic hose. I used the quick disconnect fitting because I had one laying around but you could probably make this using all threaded fittings and even a solid piece of PVC pipe.

P1020502.jpg


Assemble the parts as shown in the photo above and attach the quick disconnect fitting to the output of the pump and you are done.

P1020503.jpg

If you want to make the water in the tank circulate to simulate a current for your bait to swim against, position the hose on the bottom of the tank. If you want to keep the tank from draining when the pump is turned off, twist the fitting so the hose points vertically. When in this position, the water in the tank will not drain below the top of the input or drain pipe, (whichever is lower).

Have fun.

Bob