16' Yak Transport-Pick Up Truck

[forefrazier]

I will be upgrading to a new 16' kayak this month and don't think I am going to be comfortable hanging it out the back of the bed with the bed extender any longer. Looking for input on what works well for this length kayak:

Truck: Toyota Tundra Dbl Cab-Standard Bed

I was thinking of going with one roof rack on top and then a hitch mounted Goal Post for the rear. I don't want permanent racks on the bed as I use it often to haul my quad, bikes, etc.

As far as the mounts go.....do the wheel roller type make it easier to load? Do they cause "dents" in the hull more than the saddle type? Looking for input like this from other so I can hopefully make the right purchase the first time.

Thanks,
Steve

[Siebler]

Thule Xsporter Racks come off pretty quick if you need to do so. 5-10 minutes max. And they are secure.

Your idea works but I dont like it for much distance. I do something very similar (use my Roll Bar instead of a roof mounted rack) and the Goal Post just moves a little too much for my liking. Its fine when the boat is laying in the bed but when its up....

[Jason]

Steve,

I have the same truck as you with the Xporter racks CJ is referring to. Works great, very secure. I just flip my Trident up side down and after almost a year of use, no warping of the hull. No extra hardware necessary.

Jason

[forefrazier]

Originally Posted by Jason

Steve,

I have the same truck as you with the Xporter racks CJ is referring to. Works great, very secure. I just flip my Trident up side down and after almost a year of use, no warping of the hull. No extra hardware necessary.

Jason

Jason, what is your address and where do you park your truck?

[mrJB]

Forefrazier-
I used to run a single Thule rack on the cab of my Tundra with a T-rack from the hitch. There should be a T-rack available from Harbor Freight for under $25. It doesn't fold back (to allow the tailgate to open) but otherwise works great. I even cut down a 2X4 to slide out sideways from the T-rack to allow easy side loading. With the 2X4 extended it was easy to load my eXtreme one end at a time if I was feeling lazy. You can run a ratcheting strap from the center of the "T" and around your rear bumper widthwise to eliminate any wobble.
I've since changed to a camper shell for equipment security and camping ease.
All-in-all the "T" setup worked great but will take an extra 3 minutes to setup and breakdown . Be sure you get a locking hitch pin to avoid any a-holes looking for a freebie...

[bluesquids]

I have over 5k miles up and down California using the goal post/ roof rack system. The benefit of it is it leaves you a covered truck bed to keep camping gear in.
Use lashing straps if theres too much wobble, but with two yaks there is not much.
I would agree that if a weld does break you are more than screwed.
I've been meaning to add extra weld supports, that would end that risk.

For the removeable roof rack, I use malone cradles ($100 for two) on a $25 Pep boys 1'' bar rack. I use a extra lashing strap through the truck cab to hold it down good.
http://www.kayakfishingstuff.com/Mer...Category_Code=

[bluesquids]

Heres my pad on the T-bar. $5 blue foam camping pads from walmart wrapped in waterproof duct tape. Yak slides on it nicely and it forms to the hull.

[Rob929]

Here's my set-up.

Single sided ladder rack w/ padding. Rack can be found as low as $119 online.

Still working on a roller/ cradle system to make it even easier. The rack slides out of the posts to make removal/ storage a breeze..

[dgax65]

I kept my kayak on my rack for over two years with no problems.



It would have taken 4 guys to even attempt to steal the yak and rack. I have cable locks that connect to the bed, racks, kayak and my gear boxes. I'm sure that a determined thief could steal anything, but it would take some time. That's the case with everything, though. There are very few foolproof security measures; however, you can make it so difficult or time consuming the thief will look for an easier target.



Those rollers will make dents in the hull if the kayak sits on them for any length of time. Even the saddles can cause hull deformations. Either carry the kayak up-side-down or don't leave it on the rack for long.

[forefrazier]

[quote=bassboyc;30984]Thule Xsporter Racks come off pretty quick if you need to do so. 5-10 minutes max. And they are secure.

CJ: I do like these racks however, one of the reasons that I returned these racks before using them was due to the racks coming off in 5-10 minutes. I know you meant "secure" as in how they hold things but I was a bit nervous shelling out $600 bucks for nice looking racks like that and knowing someone could jump in my bed and probably be off with them in less than 5 min. Funny how they have locks so you can't lift the cross rails out when they don't come with some type of security lock for the attachments to the truck bed. Simple socket wrench and they are gone.

[Jason]

Originally Posted by forefrazier

Jason, what is your address and where do you park your truck?

Great, now I won't be able to sleep at night.

Seriously though, anybody have any ideas on how to secure these things to the truck?

[Billy V]

The Thule is a good way to go.
I have used it with my 16' Adventure and it spanned the kayak nicely.
The crossbars are spaced 5' 9" on center in this pic.

The crossbars can be lifted out of their bases in just a few seconds, no need to remove the base mounts.

Its a very versatile rig, the Model #421 shown here fits all 3 of my trucks. Chevy Dually, and both Frontier Models.