10 Second Freespool to 75 Second Freespool

[Lipripper92592]

I have a couple of Daiwa Saltists that I have had since 2006. They did not get much action until the last year and I noticed that the freespool was horrible, around the 10 second range.
After reading the Alan Tani forums I ordered some TSI 301 lubricant and got to work.


DSCN0373 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Remove the setscrew and use the supplied wrench to remove the handle. Back star drag and remove. I use a screw driver to keep the washers in the proper order.


DSCN0376 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Remove both side plates and you should have something that looks like


DSCN0379 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Remove to Clicker mech to expose one of the spool bearings.


DSCN0383 by lipripper1, on Flickr

And pop the bearing out, I turned the plate downward and lightly tapped it on my hand to remove it.
Remove the pinion gear noting the position of the springs, retainer and washer. Some saltists have washers, some do not (below the springs).

DSCN0397 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Once the pinion is removed, you can push the other spool bearing out.


DSCN0388 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Now comes the fun part. There is debate on the interweb regarding shielded and unshielded bearings. But if you clean your reels regularly, and don't run them through the sand, you should have no issues with unshielded bearings. Alan describes in detail how to pop the shields off the bearings on his website, but he uses a scalpel and the closest I had was a razor and a icepick. Some bearings have snap rings holding the shields in, the saltists I had, had pressed in bearings. To remove the shield on the press type shields, you can slip a razor here:


DSCN0385 by lipripper1, on Flickr

or use an icepick here. Use gentle pressure as to not ruin the bearing.


DSCN0386 by lipripper1, on Flickr

To remove the shield


DSCN0387 by lipripper1, on Flickr

DSCN0390 by lipripper1, on Flickr

I only removed one side of the shield, which will remain turned to the inside when re-installed. Now soak and clean the pinion gear and both bearings in carb cleaner.


DSCN0391 by lipripper1, on Flickr

After they are cleaned and removed of the factor grease, let them air dry while you put the handle side plate back together. Re-grease your pinion gear, but make sure not to get any grease down the center pinion hole, this could slow down your freespool drastically.
Now use the TSI 301 and lube the bearings and hole in the pinion gear.


DSCN0394 by lipripper1, on Flickr

I sprayed a light shot in the cast control knob and on the spool shaft as well.
Re install the bearing and clicker mech:


DSCN0400 by lipripper1, on Flickr

Press the other spool bearing in:


DSCN0399 by lipripper1, on Flickr

And button her back together:


DSCN0398 by lipripper1, on Flickr

I had a ten second Free Spool before I did this, after clearing the bearings and lubing them with TSI 301, I now have 75 seconds of Free Spool. I'm no expert, but I was amazed on how easy this was and can't believe I waited so long to break these reels down. The 40H I did this on spins forever, can't wait to get out and toss an iron now.

[oneyedeer]

The saltiga or saltist 30t is hands down my favorite reels. They are well built and very easy to work on. I like the tn16 but that retarded push pin design to remove the spool bearing suck balls.

[Raskal311]

The bearing shield looks damaged from removal. Did you just bend it back before putting it back together?

[vincentek9]

i've used a different lubrication and went from a 20 second to a 121 second freespool. but i left the shields off because i damaged the bearing shields so i have to re-lube the bearings every few uses. its a great way to increase freespool time for long casts.

[Lipripper92592]

Originally Posted by Raskal311

The bearing shield looks damaged from removal. Did you just bend it back before putting it back together?

I do not replace the shields that are removed. It is a clean environment in the reel, so no need for shields.

[lamb]

Awesome post,
thanks for sharing!!!

[taggermike]

Thanks for the great post. I recently did a similar tune up to my SeaLine 40. The reel cast well befor but definately better after the tune up. I had never taken the sealine apart befor and was surprised to see the cetrifical break system that runs inside the ring in the left side plate. The saltist has the same system from seeing you photos. I took the little wieghts off the pins and out of the reel when I reassmbled it. Just wanted to see if there is a diffence. Did you leave them in your reel? Mike