Electrical Wiring

[Joctane]

So I am not electrically inclined by any means (nor fishing inclined either...haha), but I want to rig my X-factor with a bow and stern light as well as a bilge pump. I have a fish finder that runs off a 12V Battery. (I also have a separate 12 V battery inside the housing of my bait tank, which I don't need to have wired to the kayak.) Can anyone give me some advice on what I need to wire the bow and stern lights, as well as the fish finder and bilge pump. From each of the items, what do I need them to go to, then how can I setup an on and off switch for each? Is this even possble? Also, what type of wiring do I need to extend the current wires for my bilge pump? The guy at radio shack gave me speaker wire. I don't think that was correct so I just left the store. Any help and possible pic's or diagrams would be great. I'm just totally lost here. I've googled away at this and haven't found any easy explanation online. Thanks in advance!

[dorado50]

wire to a off/on switch... wire to battery (piggyback) to existing working wires.No need for separate batt. Maybe add fuse. Simple...

no on the speaker wire.....need marine grade

[Handymansd]

Ditto on the marine grade wiring, dilectric grease, and good shrink wrap technique.

60 HZ interference should not be a problem, but if your sonar starts having issues with the lights on the same circuit then let me know and I will get you some information on how to clean it up. (Ground loop = bad)

for you techie geeks out there... Wade, i know you know about this...

http://courses.cit.cornell.edu/ee476...w24/index.html

[DanaPT]

Attached are a couple of pics. I bought a used x factor with all the bells and whistles installed (Installed very well by the previous owner). Not speaker wire, looks like standard grade wires.

The bow light is permanently affixed and is battery operated. Just need to press a button on the water-proof light (green and red). It's permanently screwed onto the hull, not exactly sure how it's on, but it's on!

The Fish finder is wired through a white two piece contraption that keeps water out from the inside of the kayak. I saw these for sale at West Marine. My transducer is on an arm that I swing over and drop into the water. The FF head sits in a custom made stand that slips into the scotty mount on the side of the kayak.

The bait tank is operated by a simple on/off toggle switch protected by a rubber sleeve. The switch was installed from the inside of the hull and the rubber switch screwed on from the top (no screws). This tank has a 5 amp fuse. The bait tank is plugs into a receptical.

All the wires for fish-finder, bait-tank, and optional trolling motor are all run from the hull of the kayak and zip tied to stay out of the way. I use one 12 v battery for all electronics and can get about 4 hours of heavy use. THe bait-tank and trolling motor will probably run longer, but the FF w/ GPS draws a bunch of energy and is the first to shut down.

More questions, let me know I'll try and answer.

[Lets_Fish]

Are you installing the lights because you are going to run the yak with a motor? If no motor you only need the 360° white light.

Now to some of your questions:

Having installed both a bow & stern light onto a prior kayak, I would say that the bow light most likely has an expanding "nut" (plastic wedge over a nut) that holds it in place. I installed a Perko 360° light behind the seat. This type of light is a two pin plug-in available at West Marine. If you go with this style, make sure that the mast is tall enough to be over your head for others to see you. It's easy to wire also.

For the multiple applications you could use a bus bar to distribute the power to each application (never did this before so not sure how to layout this).

Marine grade wire (nothing less) with shrink tube well fitted (use a heat gun) & do not forget good wire connections.

Toggle switches or "profile" switches work well for on-off applications (just remember MORE holes to be concerned with).

Hope this helps.