And not just the surfers...have been tucked in tight just on the edge of a big day at Black's, watching 40 guys fight to be in the right spot, and too close to watch a rogue come in and clear 3/4 of the lineup...kinda like what I witnessed at Swami's not too long ago...nothing like being on the inside, knowing the break wouldn't affect you but something entirely else knowing that you are in a kayak, fishing the bottom, while guys just N of you are dropping in...
Even though I was just out of danger but still too close for comfort (aka pucker factor), I got nothing on these guys...
