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It varies greatly with the tide level and whether it is rising or falling in any given area. The steeper the falloff of the beach at a spot the larger the surf and also any offshore mound will bump up the surf at one particular spot.
Where people get into trouble is driving a distance and reaching their destination and finding that the surf is high with a short wave period and feel compelled to go out regardless.
There are places where I go where the surf can be zero and it looks like a lake on some days and on other days there can be 8 ft breakers rolling in to the beach. Even on these beaches there is always a southern or northern end that is much calmer with smaller waves than at the center of the beach and better spots for entry and return.
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