The first couple times I ever went out, I launched at Carlsbad State Beach. Got the CRAP beat out of me, but I got used to it and nothing at LJ has scared me since. I agree with the wait wait wait PADDLE approach. Maybe I have just been lucky or maybe it was the years of surfing, but I usually get pretty far in when timed right and if I do get picked up it's by a smaller wave.
Luckily LJ is really shallow so the jump out and grab the bow rope works for me as well
If someone gets rolled (myself included) are photos on the board are fair game? lol