![]() |
Line and reel recommendations for LJ and inshore
New to kayak fishing and I want to have a proper balance of line coverage & reels for what I may face doing inshore fishing primary for YT, halibut and WSB in LJ and Carlsbad. I plan on using a Penn 4500 LL with #30 braid & a top shot of #20, but I want to add a conventional bait reel also. Bouncing between the Penn Squall/Fantom, Diawa Seagate. Any info will will be valued. What line parameters should I operate between. Thanks in advance.
|
LJ
Some of what you are asking about is answered in the Information tab-good articles by people who know. 20# to 50# should get it done.
Get out there and make your own rules as to what works for you.:cheers1: |
I don't use spinners in LJ so I can't comment much on the reel. But I'd ditch the 30 braid n 20 mono idea and go with 50 or 65 lb braid. That way you can fish a wider range of leader weights. I don't even bring 20 lb leader any more, just 30 and 40. LJ is a rough neighborhood; kelp, dogs, sports boats, crazy skiff guys, anchor ropes and the longer the fish is on the line the lower chances of landing it are. Mike
|
x2 on 30/40lb leader w/ 50/65 braid.
Check out the last 30 seconds of this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_v4kTwr3UqE |
I just started targeting yellowtail this year transitioning from bass...
I tried the 20 lb top shot and I lost every fish on the bottom or kelp. Granted I was 3 way swivel bottom fishing but I got tired of losing fish. I'm using 65lb power pro and 40lb flourocarbon now with no issues. I even have some 50lb fluorocarbon if I decide to bottom fish again. If you do get hooked up and tangled in kelp don't do what I did and pull until the line snaps or just pulling forever. If you are using braid for main line feed line out so the fish will swim out of the kelp where your top shot was hanging up. Braid will now be wrapped in the kelp and try pulling again and the braid should saw through. Also try moving your yak away and the fish should pop out. For yellows use short rod pumps too...pump then grind on the way down. I found out if I dropped the rod too quickly while not simultaneously reeling on the way down slack can be created in the line and your fish is now gone...If you are using j hooks you may have hooked the fish on the roof of his mouth. ..with slack the hook frees up and you can loose him. Don't use any junior varsity bass hooks either unless you like straightened hooks. Recommend owner hooks big and strong enough...you can pull up threads on all this stuff. I don't use a spinning real but I've heard great things about the penn fisher.... Depending your style of fishing you will need a real with the right gear ratio...ie your irons on the yo yo may not go fast enough to get bit if your reel is low gear... Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk |
I'm not interested in taking a chance at losing fish so all of my lines are #65 braid and #40 mono/flouro.
|
Quote:
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk |
Thanks very much Mike. Valuable info.
|
I run #80 braid, same diameter as #16 mono, on fathom 30's. I have some other reels with #65. #30-40 top shot for the day and #50-60 for the night shift.
|
I don't use spinners very often in LJ. But if youre more comfortable with them there are certainly many that would work well
Like the other posters said, 20 lb is too light for yt in LJ. LA Jolla can be a very rough neighborhood. Kelp, dogs, anchor lines, crowds, lobster trap lines in that season. As well as the fact that yt are incredably strong fish with a good ability to find structure. The longer you fight the fish the better the chances are that some will go wrong. I'd recommend going with 65 lb braid, the original rough thin stuff to cut kelp rather than the newer "slick" stuff. Then a short leader, 5' or so, of 30 or 40 lb fluoro. 40 or higher can be very difficult to break off if/when you get hung up on the bottom. Lastly I'd highly recommend using a lever drag for live bait fishing. LDs generally have stronger and smoother drags. But beyond that LDs let you easily set the tension on the spool when trolling a big frisky mackerel. I've found with a star drag the clicker will slip and click the whole time you're trolling. And since the reels only a few feet away from my ear it drives me crazy. Mike |
When I troll my star drag reels I just leave it in gear with a little drag on. When I get bit I tighten up slowly to set the circle hook. Once the fish is on, ill hand pull some line out until im at the right drag pressure. Sounds complicated but only takes a couple of seconds.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I took my spinning gear out for 1 trip, and kept hitting my knees with the spinning bail.
Maybe I just have a weird seating position where I like to brace myself with my knees bent, or maybe I position the reel/rod in a weird way, but I found the setup to be quite annoying and painful (at least once) when the bail hit me just-right. After that, I went to a bait caster for all my subsequent kayak trips with no complaints. |
Thanks Lit Up
|
Great vid and valuable information. Thanks for taking the time to share, taggermike, M7Vasque, Addicted2sp, YakDout, Paquina, Phisphood, Pingpangdang, all valuable info, that saved me from making the wrong purchase. I went with a Seagate baitcaster #60 braid/#40 topshot mono, and use my jig master 500 for my #30lb set up. Again thanks for taking the time to weigh in, your info is appreciated.
|
Quote:
|
65lb braid and 30lb fluoro leader, 5/0 circle.
|
I've tried different braids, and have settled on textured 65# green Power Pro on my heavier and mid-weight poles for La Jolla and SD Bay. It's easy to cast, cuts kelp and it has always laid flat for me on my reels for a long, long time. I have never had a birds nest with 65# Power Pro. Everyone has their preferences, but this is what works best for me. I put 65# Power Pro on my little Curado baitcaster to save space and have more line, and it casts beautifully -- better than my old lighter weight spinning reels loaded with less-than-fresh curled up mono of any light weight bay weight.
I have also explored fluorocarbon brands. It costs a few dollars more, but I prefer using Blackwater. It's tough, it ties easily, it lasts longer and it doesn't seem to curl up as much as the other popular brands. Squidco and Dana Point Landing both have a good selections of Blackwater. 40# P-line fluorocarbon failed me a couple of times when my knots cracked, so I scrapped that. Some people like it. Maybe my spool was from a bad batch. FWIW, one more opinion. We all have our favorites. |
I like blackwater leader also. They are the only company I have seen make a 35lb test thus far.
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:20 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© 2002 Big Water's Edge. All rights reserved.