Originally Posted by JoeBeck (Post 79310)

For a Daiwa Sealine 20 I'd go with a lighter rod, something like a Teramar TMS-70MH or a seeker 196-7', or cheaper the ugly stick BCL110060 (I've caught a lot of bass and halibut on mine :D)

that is just me though.

Originally Posted by dorado50 (Post 79316)

Looking for the best all-around rod action to use in all types of fishing?. Give up the search because no such beast exists! Invest in a selection of rods each tapered for peak performance in a particular situation...Gloomis and pure graphite rods are expensive for a reason.:reel:

Originally Posted by dorado50 (Post 79316)

Gloomis and pure graphite rods are expensive for a reason.:reel:

Originally Posted by inshorefisher (Post 79327)

have broken a few expensive well know graphite rods, mostly lite action...6-15 pounds line. broke about 2 feet and up. haven't broken any glass rods and have put them through hell. use to fish high end rods but they required a lot of attention. cheap fiberglass rods, i fish then rinse then throw in them in the corner.

Originally Posted by bubblehide (Post 79333)

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

Originally Posted by bubblehide (Post 79333)

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser (Post 79352)

Does anybody know anything about the Avet rods that are graphite like the SX 870? they are $90 on sale at Big 5 right now.

Originally Posted by bus kid (Post 79353)

Skip the Avet save some money and get a "Ugly tiger"

http://reviews.basspro.com/2010/8012...ws/reviews.htm

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser (Post 79308)

Subjective I'm sure but...
I'm thinking about about scoring one more lighter setup.... 7' 15-40ish to go with my other sealine 20.
My brother says try an all graphite rod since I'm converting to braid...he says: "You'll feel everything through the line."
I'll use this setup for fishing kelp and bays....calico's and hali's

Your thoughts?

Originally Posted by bubblehide (Post 79333)

As you've already figured out, fiberglass rods are exceptional durable, while carbon rods/graphite are much lighter, but can be fragile; the latter also conducts electricity. Yes the grapgite rods are much, much more sensitive, which can be a great benefit.

We, or the industry has (basically) gone from fiberglass, to S glass and then E glass, or simply put, from heavier to lighter product, while little other than weight changed (for the most part). But graphite brought us some significant changes, not only in weight, but sensitivity, strength, backbone... and allowed for some much "faster actions".

With the advent of spectra (think no stretch of the line), and the then common trend of using all graphite rods (at the time), many fishermen were pulling the hooks right out of the mouths of the fish they hooked, and having their fish swim off. While all graphite rods are still being made, the current new trend in rod manufacture is composite rods, or rods made with graphite and glass; rods with plenty of backbone, but also with softer tips, to take up for some of that lack of line stretch, and the head shakes of some fish, so the hook doesn't get spit out. The new composite rods appear to have everything going for them, light weight, durable, and suited for spectra with short tops shots (the way most of us are fishing).

But everything (especially now a-days) has it's application. If the fish are slamming the jig or bait, there is no need for all the sensitivity of graphite. But if their gingerly going after the bait, graphite certainly helps to know what is going on at the otter end. But, your being tapped, as many have found out, you may not want to swing that rod in an attempt to set the hook; you just may want to let the fish start to swim off for a bit, to give it a chance to get the bait in it's mouth or swallow the bait, so that when you do set the hook, you not just pulling the bait away from the fish.

As far as my opinion, I say you should at least try an all graphite rod, so you at least know the difference. But in the end it all comes down to preference for most people. If your holding a rod all day, the weight will certainly make a difference; but if the rod is going to sit in a rod holder most of the time, you may never notice a difference between a graphite rod and an E-glass rod. Yet if you really want an exceptionally sensitive rod, you should be considering an all graphite rod with a handle that allows the mounting surface of reel to touch the rod blank.

If you ever do the party boats, preferably multi-day trips, it's a great place to ask people to try out their rods. I've managed to make many friends by doing this and allowing others to try mine. You'll learn lots, and begin to know what you want out the equipment, and what equipment will give you what you want; or preform the way you want it to.

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 79361)

I'd disagree with your brother.

I'd say something has got to give..... :D

Carbon fast taper rods were designed for mono. They transmit every vibration, and can move fish quicker which makes up for the stretch of mono.

Spectra since it has very little stretch has no give when fish lunges or shakes it's head, so not only do you not need a graphite rod but it becomes kind of a problem..

Combine spectra with a carbon fast taper rod and you not only have a rod that has no give but a line that has no give as well and that results in more torque at the hook, which translates into lost fish. Also in my opinion it's just uncomfortable to fish with.

I've played with a lot of rods with spectra and the best ones are more parabolic traditional glass rods because they have enough give to compensate for spectras lack of stretch. I mostly fish with vintage yellow sabres, black glass Calstars and Kencors. As they work great with spectra.

If you want the best of both try a Kencor Zebra.

Magnaglass construction and a spiral of graphite. Since the graphite flexes like a spring they give you more sensitivity but they are still parabolic enough for spectra.

I collect these and they are fantastic for fishing spectra. I'd recommend a Kencor 7ft Zebra Z7X1030, or if that is too pricey a NZKAYK770C which is their cheaper series. I run Diawa 20s on both those rods.

My buddy Byron can hook you up with them. The true Zebra is about $150 the NZ sells for about $60 now that Kencor is out of business.

I think over time your going to see a resurgence back to more parabolic glass or glass graphite rods in response to the spectra fishing market but these things take time.

Jim

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser (Post 79363)

Man Jim, you're like a talking (typing) encyclopedia.
It totally makes sense what you're saying...I guess my bro is right in that you'll feel everything through the line but that may cause me to just rip an empty hook away from willing fish with a graphite rod.

$150 is a bit steep of a rod for me..I got diapers to buy...hence my user name...haha...What is this NZ rod you're talking about?

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 79361)

.....I think over time your going to see a resurgence back to more parabolic glass or glass graphite composite rods in response to the spectra fishing market but these things take time.

Jim

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 79364)

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...hres/YFTII.jpg

Originally Posted by RedSledTeam (Post 79369)

Cool! So, I can resurrect my old 10' Sabre 540 Diamond wrapped personally by the Master "Yo" himself! :luxhello::luxhello::luxhello::reel:

Originally Posted by bus kid (Post 79370)

It seems that Pro Angler keeps getting bigger. :biggrinjester:

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 79372)

LOL..

That's actually a really cool small offshore skiff. Blackman diesel 20 Center Console, which actually tapes out closer to 19'6". Thing sips fuel at troll. We were fishing Marlin that day and fished all over the east end of Cat and burned about sixty bucks in fuel. If I could find that boat in good shape with a diesel I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Jim

Originally Posted by bubblehide (Post 79373)

@ BrokeLoser, if you do go with an all graphite rod, you may want to use a 50-100 yard topshot of mono, so you have some stretch/give.

Originally Posted by T Bone (Post 79377)

off the top of my head I can only think of 3 pure graphite rods for the salt: Gloomis,Phenix and Graphite USA.All the others are a composite.

If $$$ wasnt an issue I would get a Super seeker.Glass at the tip and graphite in the backbone.

I had a GUSA and loved it.I lost it in the surf at LJ.It looked like a bass rod but could fish 50# with ease.I caught more than a few 45-60# YFT on it.I had to use 3/8 I.D. Hypolon to make the foregrip just to let you know how small it was in diameter.I loved it.Incredible backbone.The blank was $125 on sale at the FHS but are normally around $160.

Rods are like golf clubs.There is no "do it all model"....

I use that line on my wife a lot when I need new stuff:)

Originally Posted by bus kid (Post 79374)

...still available... huuuummmmmm you buy it and I'm good for gas and bait any time.

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser (Post 79379)

Jim, you may have to hook me up with your buddy and an NZ.

Originally Posted by BrokeLoser (Post 79376)

Good point.
But what about a kelp cutter rig with only 4ft of mono or fluoro?

Originally Posted by Jim Day (Post 79371)

It'll work, big for a Daiwa 20.

Nice old rod... Whats the line class rating on that 540?

Jim

Originally Posted by T Bone (Post 79385)

That avet rod is also a composite.When they are 100 bucks they are a good deal though