*Added Pics * Mirage drive failed...got home anyway
 

While chasing butts out by the lighthouse yesterday, my mirage drive failed. The idler cable broke right in the middle. Yikes.
The tide was still running out giving about a 1.1 knot drift. Have I mentioned that I have a PA 14? Older model with the lower seat... Out comes the paddle and the learning begins.


Learning #1: I can't paddle for crap. Seriously. I have never had any other kayak and I can't paddle. I made it about 1/4 mile before coming to the conclusion that this just wasn't gonna happen.

Learning #2: That standard Hobie paddle is too friggin short for the PA 14. Granted, I am a t-rex in the arm length department, but I couldn't reach the water without shifting my grip. This is going close to nowhere...

Learning #3: Mirage drives will work without the idler...kinda. Faced with calling for a tow since there was no way I was going to get back to Shelter Island with my paddle, I figured WTH and put the drive back in to see how far I could get. I got all the way back to the launch with some fishing stops in between! It was making a lot of noise, but it seemed to work ok.

Learning #4 Mirage drives aren't happy without the idler. When I got back, I couldn't get the drive out of the well. Finally just pulled it up on a rock to look under it and saw that the main axle shaft has walked forward about 3 inches and was effectively pinning the drive into the well. How that thing worked with the axle walked out that far is beyond me!!

The weather was perfect. Had it been snotty like last time when I got all the water in the boat, I never could have made it with a paddle. This time was close enough that I turned my radio on to start listening to traffic and though about calling Sea-Tow or hailing a passing Parker.

So, now I have a few things to figure out. As you know from my other posts, I'm big on safety and I don't like risks. I have to either find a paddle that would work for me in a pinch or buy a spare mirage drive, and find a way to store it in the hull that would be accessible on the water. But before all that, I need to call the tech guy at the local Hobie place and see how in the heck to get that drive out of the well!!

Just one of the reasons I dumped my PA for the outback. Fished with two other guys in la jolla last weekend. The guy on PA14 broke mirage drive. Outback paddled in and donated mirage drive to the PA. Not sure how it would have worked if it wasnt for that. Some guys are keeping spare parts for the mirage drive in their hatch, however I'm sure this part kit does not cover every part on the mirage drive. And $600 for a spare drive? No thanks.

I've never broken a paddle.:D

I was waiting for all you paddle boys to chime in, what took you so long?

I would have chimed in sooner but my arms are tired from paddling. Not really, since I have no experience with the Hobies I'm just watching to see how these things get fixed.

if the paddle is the answer, I need to:
1. get a longer paddle
2. learn how to paddle


Although I somewhat suspect that the PA is like trying to row a barge...

I would think that you are right! It would be like trying to paddle a barge. I think you should get a better quality (not Hobie) paddle for emergencies. The other idea is get a sail for it. Probably cheaper and certainly move you faster. Then all you have to learn is how to sail.

Let the fights begin:boxing_smiley:

I used to carry a spare drive on the kayak. Best investment I made for my kayak.

Iv'e had all those same problems too, but they are few and far between now. You should check your mirage drive after every trip or every other trip. Look for frayed cables, loose cables, unusual wear, bent masts, cracks on the crank arms, loose set screw for the spline shaft...

You should take care and maintain your mirage drive regularly. If you can't or won't...expect to have more failures in the future.


Get a decent paddle
And...learn how to paddle too...

The #1 replacement part that I sell is far and away the chain, buy one and a wrench to keep with you and you will very likely solve the most common Mirage drive failure.
If you happen to have an old V 1 I'd check local dealers for replacement chains as these have been discontinued by Hobie, I sold my last one in stock a couple weeks ago. Otherwise you need to do an upgrade kit on your V1.

I have a V1 for sale in classified section.

Hooping this year I broke a cable on my way out to the secret spot. the outback can be paddled. not the best tracking kayak.

i now carry the extra side cable and a wrench in my dry bag.

I need an extra middle cable to be complete. I think having 2 or 3 of these is cheaper than buying an extra drive.

and Ful-rac is spot on! inspect what you expect.

All respect to Ful-rac...I do indeed clean, inspect and lubricate after each trip.

This started with a little clicking sound...looked for what was causing it and saw a small crack in the black coating on the idler cable. Few minutes later that little crack was a bunch of fraying cable ends and the idler was toast. It went fast. I will carry extra cables for sure...but I gotta say, once the axle walked forward it was game over for an OTW repair no matter what parts I might have had.

To your other point...I didn't really know that this ISN"T a decent paddle. I'd never tried it. Now I have and I'm going shopping for sure. I don't thing this thing will be a joy to paddle no matter what, but with this paddle its a non-starter.

You should have gotten use to your gear before going out and know what you're capable of. Being sucked out by the tide while miles out isn't really the perfect time to find out that you can't paddle your battleship. Maybe you need a smaller yak.


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I always carry spare chains and the tools to fix them. It's a cheap investment that can save your butt on the water. It's also a good idea to have a few of the other parts associated with the drive, like the pins that go into the fins. I've had those come out also, all it takes is the retaining ring to get snagged on some kelp and they bend open.

Sounds like you guys need a fully equipped spare Outback to tow behind you for when the inevitable happens. And don't forget the spare parts bag for that one too.

Like others have mentioned, an extra chain and tools to install is an absolute must unless you enjoy paddling. No big deal to replace on the water if you have the right tools. I recently disassembled my v1 drive and serviced it. Silky smooth and now I know how to repair if needed. Pretty simple with only a few parts that can go wrong on the water. I also lube exposed wire on chain after rinsing to eliminate rust.

Is there a good lube out there??

I like "corrosion x" prevents rust and corroding on metal and electrical connections.

Oars
 

This is the exact reason I do not put a motor on my 26' cuddy cabin. It's just bound to break down some day, and the hassle involved with that......oars are just the way to go, always have and always will. And spare oars are super cheap too. CG has them listed all the time.:rolleyes:

How many people know they should carry a tow rope but don't? Further, some ropes are designed to float others don't, but the main point is to have a rope available when we need one.

Another tool that's useful for a Hobie is a phillips screw driver to adjust, tighten or reattach the strings that go to the rudder. Losing rudder control is a pain in the butt too.

I drilled a hole in my plastic screwdriver handle for a nylon wrist strap that can be clipped to a lanyard if I'm working over the water.

Three other items I have found useful are for removing water: hand operated bilge pump (NRS is a good one for about $20), a bailing bucket that I associate with my bait tank (a simple round tupperware that fits through an 8" hatch), and a shamwa for blotting up water in annoying places or using as a wet rag.

Many of these things are multi purpose, so good to have.

At the beginning of summer I was rowing my dinghy pretty hard for exercise/fishing in San Diego bay and snapped an oar lock near the bait barge.

It's a slick dinghy of nice quality, but that sucker won't row without an oar lock. Using a single oar as a loose paddle is pretty useless too. Luckily there was enough wind to sail back to my launch point.

I bought a new pair of oar locks and keep the remaining 3rd oar lock in my gear bag as a backup now.

Lots of these things are not so strong and need to be used gently without exerting excessive force.

Same for Mirage peddles. It's not difficult to apply more force than is good for them.


Live and learn. Sometimes small things make big differences.

I have had the main axle shaft walk on me twice. Luckily, I discovered it before it move enough to prevent removing the mirage drive out of the well. Need to check all the allen set screws periodically -- if they loosen the shafts can walk. Should be able to gently tap the shaft back into position. A spare mirage will fit in the forward hatch of the PA14, but to make it fit, need to leave out the forward liner. For safety, better have the forward liner in place for flood control and prevention. The mirage can limp in as you learned, I was surprised that a broken mast only reduced speed by 1/3. I'll take a Hobie over a paddle kayak any day. The Hobie paddle needs an extension, let us know if you find a good extension.

Anything else you would add to a formalized "mirage drive maintenance checklist"?

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Additional information:

Mirage Drive Lubrication choices
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12577

Mirage Drive Lubrication points
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12576

Mirage Drive Adjustments
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12578

Mirage Drive FAQ's
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewf...9c9c6512c01b74

Seems to me that if I spent that kind on money on a P14. I would expect that Hobie would have better quality control and design a system that would not have these problems. Think with all the problems that seem to keep cropping up it is time for a recall and a Senate investigation.

Trying to make everything idiot proof just makes more idiots.

Hobie design and quality is good, but anything can fail. When we are the "pilot in command" it's our job to think things forward and have options and backups ready for handling unexpected situations.

When it's us and nature, it's up to us to survive. Maybe there's nobody else out there to complain to when things don't go right.

A little common sense is a good thing.

Some pedal bikes cost over 4K and their chains break. It's Bound to happen. Get over it or don't buy one


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That's why I ride a balance bike; less moving parts

No need, I have no problems paddling outback, but have never needed to so far. Never had one thing happen to 3 different mirage drives that I own. And Im not easy on em.

I still can't get past the fact that you have never paddled and had never even used your paddle. Out on the ocean and you're not even sure if you know how to paddle your yak or if the paddle you have even works for your kayak.

I know the PA's are a whole other story compared to paddle yaks and I'm not trying to put you down. However! Especially with you being so concerned with safety, it seems that being able to paddle your kayak to safety when the drive breaks would be number one concern over having the tools to possibly fix a drive while on the water. Anyhow it's good you learned from your experience and hopefully others will benefit

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I have broke two paddles.

Trying to break the mirage drive now:D

That's why I got my wife a 2015 outback. If I ever do a very long trip, I might borrow her brand new mirage drive as an extra :D

Just another hobie bashing


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That's some funny s#*t right there...

the standard hobie paddle is 230 cm
 

Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

I have an Aqua Bound paddle for my Outback that felt too short to be comfortable.

I cut it in half with my chop saw and inserted a wood pole as a spacer, then wrapped the joint and covered the wood with paracord as a finishing touch. It turned out nice and gives me the extra reach and strength that feels good.

Before I locked the wood spacer into position with epoxy, I went out for some test paddles to figure out what length felt the best for me, relative to the hull of my Outback.

It was a nice improvement.

Haha I just had to throw it out there because someone was bound to. I just beat everyone to it.

Heck,
 

You probably saved yourself 200-500$ on a paddle that is primarily just gonna sit there and look pretty.