Hobie Pro Angler 12 rudder mod
 

i made a new larger rudder for the PA 12. it was made out of lexan (polycarbonate) the process took about an hour to made and another hour to fit.

sorry for the crappy cell phone pic's
http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/P82A0097.jpg

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/P82A0100.jpg

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/P82A0103.jpg

http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/P82A0104.jpg



testing it out tomorrow for bug hunt'n

Very nice job....I am sure that idea will be borrowed...thanks for sharin'
I don't have a PA...yet, but I would do that

x2 on the design. :cheers1: Now you got me thinking :hmmmm2:, And I haven't even had my PA 12 in the water yet.

Sabiki Rod Issues
 

Well, I made one of those PVC pipe Sabiki Rods to try and save some money. It turned out OK but larger mackerel have been causing grooves to wear into the PVC. I couldn't find anything to put on the end to alleviate this problem, so I made something. I'll be trying it out in LJ next week. I took a large beer bottle and cut off the top, ground down the edges with emory cloth, and heated the PVC with a heat gun and stuck the beer bottle end inside. It was slightly loose so I put a hose clamp and some duct tape around it. My wife just said, "Go buy a sabiki rod". I guess it was the challenge of making something work that kept me going. With my luck, the glass will break while transporting it to the beach.

yeah but ya "Got Permission and don't have to ask for Forgiveness"
Use the rod you made and buy another one that you really want and just call it your Sabiki Rod

:cheers1:

I put a good amount of five minute expoxy on my PVC opening. And been good for almost 3years now....

The epoxy sounds like a good idea. I'll try it when my beer bottle top breaks. So does getting another rod and calling it a "sabiki rod". This site is full of great information. Thanks guys. I'm thinking an ULUA sabiki rod maybe.

From my earlier thread

Drake, thank's a bunch for sharing your idea. Today I went to Home Depot and purchased five lids and five of those cups, it cost me $20.

I made a few improvements to the tops and cups.

1st

I took a file to the ridges that are on the lids, filed them down to minimize the amount o pressure it takes to open the lid

Before
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1349560309

After
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1349560308


Next, I took a round file to the cups and filed down a small section to help pop open the top.
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1349560308

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1349560308



I compared the amount of strength it took to open an off the shelf piece to one that I modified. After the modification it took about half the pressure to remove the top, filing down a section to get a grip with a finger really helped.


Again, thanks for sharing:you_rock:

Bait cages are baited and in the freezer ready for the next :lobster:

No problem Jor. Looks like you got the different cups than the ones I got. I went with the slotted ones because the green lids don't actually go all they way in, and it makes a little more room for bait. Also, I know it probably won't matter but I figured with the slits in the bottom their would be less drag when pulling them up. But agian, when its packed with bait I don't think it will matter. Let me know how those work. If they do I might make the switch because they have a lower profile by about 3/4"

10-4.....I forgot to mention that I used the ones that have the closed bottom, no need to have bait spilling out of the bottom.

Made a small modification to the nets to better accommodate the pucks.

One came loose last night so I wanted to come up with a better way to secure them. This is what I came up with.

I cut the string that holds the tag ends of the netting together which forms the opening. Then I weaved a short bungee in the loops and zip tied them to the lower ring. I cut the end off so they wouldn't rust and get hung up, then burned the tips to clean them up.

The bungees cost $2.94 from home depot.

Took about 2 minutes for each hoop.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../DSC003562.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/DSC00358.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/DSC00359.jpg

Just thought I would share a picture of the double kayak storage stand I made with 1 1/4" PVC. Pretty simple and works perfect.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0938.jpg

In-hull transducer mounting. Works perfect.

Used plumbers puddy to create the ring.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0944.jpg

Filled half way with goop and tape in place. Let stand at least 24 hours.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0946.jpg

Remove the puddy.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0950.jpg

For those with Malibu Kayaks you know how difficult it is to reach the front pole holders. So I am gonna try this to bring the pole holder closer to me.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0948.jpg

thought i was innovative by adding tennis balls to the cart so the yak didnt rest on the cross bar... then drake told me the black spacers are adjustable... :D

so if you dont have the spacers and dont want to buy them. add some tennis balls... these ones seemed softer than normal.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/101_3915.jpg

that ducer mount is perfect, the rod adapters are a great idea for that app,
I had made some for the Outback, but I broke em in a yardsale, never did redo them...nice job

I found that those "adjustable" black spacers on a Hobie cart work perfectly: They self-adjust right to the bottom the moment you put the kayak on.

I added a one-inch section of PVC under the black spacers. No more slippage.

Hockey Stick Fishing Rod Holder
 

I've been holding on to my broken hockey sticks, was saving them to build a coffee table. But, I got bored and decided I needed to build something over the weekend.

May I introduce, the Hockey Stick Fishing Rod Holder.

http://imageshack.us/a/img198/3307/photo1kat.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img145/2926/photo2nv.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img84/5894/photo3jep.jpg

Nice!

i like the idea of front pole holder extender... i will try to make one but not for the pole but for camera mount extending towards the front to have a wide angle shot... i will use the concept... thanks for sharing!

Thanks! If you are following the concept, I believe I cut the arms at 15 degrees, and 4 inches in length. The backbone is 25 inches, with the first arm epoxied at the 24 inch mark, with 4 inch intervals. Start from the bottom up, that way the top has a slightly larger area for you to wall mount vs the bottom (see pictures in first post). I used drywall anchors, long screws, and a washer to keep the carbon fiber from caving in at the screw head.

whats that rear hatch on the pro angler for anyways?

rigged it up to hold one of my batteries. since the front hatch seems to hold water, I'm in the progress of fixing that, i figured this would be the best way to insure a dry battery and terminals. i just slit holes for the wire and epoxied it in place.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...king/photo.jpg

Just making a contribution to this awesome thread.

Original post here with a review.
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...ad.php?t=15546

sweet deal, Just ordered mine

Nice design, how did it work out? Do you feel a change in the center of gravity or feel unstable? I want to do mine like that but with a spare boat seat, idk how it will affect paddling though i might be sitting to high.

This is all I have done so far

http://youtu.be/KkKQCx3Z--Y

WHERE'S THAT BUNGEE!!??
 

Ive been out a few times and have come close to or have actually forgotten the bungee cord for my kayak cart wheels. I have the larger wheeled and YES I know they're big but its nice to have them available as soon as you land. Anyway, since Hobie makes those plastic removable nuts I decided to come up with a permanent solution to my problem.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...3121542180.jpg

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...3121595864.jpg

ACME RSRDT 3000 (Rockfish Safe Release Descension tool)
 

2 years of research and development
This is for all you cheap bastards that don't want to pay for a real one:D

Features
All plastic construction: it's lightweight and won't rust.
Glows in the dark: Acts as a night light so that those little frys you're sending back down into the dark abyss won't get scared.
Floats: You will never lose it
Multi Purpose: flip it upside down and it can be used as a lip gripper

Instructions
1. Clip the lever end to your line
2. Clamp it on to bottom lip of fish and send it down
3. Pull on rod a few times and clamp will release

Holy crap T!!! That's fricken awesome!

^^^^^^^^^^^^ Some of the best ideas are the simple ones.. Thats the best one yet :luxhello::luxhello:

Soo simple...it's frickin genius!

:cheers1:

Thanks for the compliments!

If you want to be an ultralight freak and drill small holes into all your gear like me....use brad point drill bits. It makes clean holes and won't tear through or crack any types of plastic or PVC.

Rolling Rack Project
 

OK, I've been shamelessly stealing some of these great ideas from some of you sharp West Coast guys. Time for me to try to contribute something.

Here's a rolling rack project that I did about three years ago and posted on a few other sites. Some changes that I've made since then:

I made slings for all three bunks. I keep a Revo, Kaskazi DII and Ocean Kayak P-13 on this rack. All three kayaks are kept hull down in the slings. I know some folks advised hull up on the bunks, but I've never had a single issue with oil canning and it's much more convenient this way. Anyone hanging a kayak from a hoist would have a similar arrangement. The other boats are relegated to an A-frame rack on the side yard.

Here's a day project that might help free up some floor space in the garage. Good for burning a snowy day! We have a single car garage and were constantly stumbling over both the kayaks. I didn't really want to store them outside; we live in NJ...I didn't want these kayaks boosted :mad:

I wanted a rack that could hold up to 3 kayaks, but be able to get them all out of the way if needed. I found some other similar designs on the web, but adapted some of the better features to make something that would work best for me. A trip to the Home Depot got me the wood, hardware and misc supplies needed.

Overall outside dimensions are 72" x 39". The inside width dimensions were dictated by the fattest boat (OK Malibu 2XL).

I wanted to be able to slide the kayaks onto the crosspieces or bunks, so I used black foam pipe insulation and covered them with indoor/outdoor carpet. I wrapped the carpet around the top and sides and secured it to the bottom of the 2x4's with staples all the way across. You'll need a staple gun for this.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_0038.jpg

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_0042.jpg

The OK sits directly on the bunks. I don't really worry about creating permanent dents in the bottom of this boat. They're built like tanks and because of the bottom design, not likely to get damaged. I was a little more concerned about storing the Revo in the same fashion. I decided to create a sling. I bought some 4" wide winch strap material from online. I doubled over the material on the one side and screwed it to the 2x4 using fender washers and screws. You can easily poke holes in the material using a pencil soldering iron. On the other side I installed a d-ring and secured it using a small bolt, nut and lock washer. This side gets hung on the hooks. When I want to use the boat, I unhook both D-rings from the hooks, ease the boat onto the bunks, and slide the Revo out.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_0041.jpg

I used these corner brackets that I picked up at HD to secure all the cross piece bunks to the uprights and horizontal long pieces. They save a bunch of time and worked out pretty well.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_0040.jpg

I got some heavy duty rolling casters from Harbor Freight. I made sure that they had real ball bearings and could handle quite a bit of weight. I screwed in short pieces of 2x4's to the bottom so that I could get some long screws into the bottom to mount the wheels on.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...IMG_0039-1.jpg

I've had the rack in use for several months and it's working out great for us. When I want to get something off the shelf in back of it, it's fairly easy to roll it out of the way. I can roll it right out into the driveway if I want to clean the garage. Make sure that you have some wheel chocks ready. You don't want to be chasing your rack and yaks down the driveway.

Sorry for the varying size of the pictures. Couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get the first shot the same size as some of the others.

nice rack. Any pictures of fish? :cool:

In all seriousness hope all is going well for you and your neighbors.

How about a solar Battery charger straped to the deck!! So we can keep charged our 12 volt for longer trips. Also you I phone users to. My girl saw this at Cost Co and wants to use it.

http://www.goalzero.com/

Maybe it will help Cheers :cheers1: Saba

I have a 30 watt flexible panel intended for RV's that I put on the front hatch of my Scupper Pro for extended Baja trips. It connected direct to the finder/bait tank battery to keep it charged. Havent decided yet if I'll set it up on the new PA though - I went the Aussie way and put in a manual whale pump for the bait tank this time, and can charge the finder battery in the truck when it needs it...

Whale pump
 

Please show the whale pump installation. I'm very interested in that.

Brilliant!!

Simple design I like it.

In the downhill mountain bike race scene we call these speed holes. :)