Hobie Pro Angler Tandem for the little one
 

I used to have a gator hatch on my malibu that my daughter loved to sit on while we fished in lakes and especially in the sierras. anyway the mirage drive temptation got the best of me and I went with a revolution which after about 6 months broke my daughter's heart because she couldn't go to the lake with daddy.

Solution:

Pro Angler with a front swivel seat mod.

Seat $25
Swivel mount $10
Detachable seat mount $20
Stainless hardware $12
Lumber $6


The detach mount allows me to take the seat on and off.

That is so cool!

This should be a chapter in the manual that none of us received when we came home from the hospital with our children.

I can see it now, Parenting 101. The chapter heading... Teach your kids to love what you love.

Well done Slappy. Did she catch that fish?

Bob

Electrical Putty Installation of Transducer
 

Electrical Putty Transducer Installation

Not happy with the wet installation results of my transducer I remembered a Youtube video a friend of mine, John Oast, did about installing a transducer with Electrical Putty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u1d3_UeD3k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEZ9_C1iKP0

I went back to watch how he did the installation and found another video of someone who tested it on 3 different Kayaks with a couple of different installations. I chose to follow what John did with his transducer.
Here are the materials needed, I did not photo the Marine goop but that is needed to secure the sponge to the Kayak in this method of installation.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...3/TrasInst.jpg
I like having the ring to be the guide for where the transducer is going to be installed.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../TrasInst3.jpg
First I cleaned the area with alcohol prior to gluing the sponge. Then I glued the sponge into place and let that sit for about 5 minutes.
Then I opened the putty and cut off a little chunk. I then formed that into a small flat slab to put in the center of the sponge opening, making sure to really mush it around to fill the opening.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../TrasInst2.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../TrasInst4.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../TrasInst5.jpg
Then I stuck the transducer in the opening and rocked into place.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../TrasInst6.jpg
This Putty is sticky and does not let things slip. Prior to launching I made sure the transducer did not move and it had not.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...z123/ffgps.jpg
I am very happy with the results I found that the readings were right on, depth wise, and temp wise. The best part to this is I can move the FF to another boat, or Kayak at any time.

Cost of the sponge - 99 Cents
Cost of Electrical Putty - $1.29 Home Depot
Marine Goop and Alcohol already on hand.
Time spent on installation including driving 30 minutes.

Watch the videos I have included there is a way to install without gluing anything to the hull. Great option if you don't want to glue anything to your hull.

Good job Jimmy. Your method is similar to the grease mount version that I currently use. The wet mount, while very effective can have some problems, most notably leakage.

If you do not see any loss of performance with the putty, this may be a good find as the putty should be less messy than the grease. My only concern would be what happens as the putty ages and dries out.

Please keep us posted.

Bob

I'll keep you posted on this. I placed the remaining putty that I did not use in a ziplock bag so that it will keep fresh. So, as you mentioned, if the putty dries, I'll just peal the old out and put the new in.

I am suprised that putty works. It is mostly clay and some have fiberglass or other stuff mixed in to keep it strong. I used it a lot in Vaccuum sealing applications. Also I would not expect the putty to release air bubbles, which could be a problem.

I am kind of confused after looking at your picture though... It seemed like your Fish Finder screen was all clutered? Is that right? Mine is perfectly clear except where I would expect to see noise or Hopefully marks...


Good Luck

What you are seeing on the screen, other than the water spots, was whatever was in the water. 99.9% of all the area that I was in was clear, there was a lot of bait in the water, grass, temp changes. I would have liked to video the entire outing but I didn't want to bore anyone.

I was a doubtful about the putty myself but I thought well for a $1.29 it can't hurt and if it doesn't work, I'll just Goop it down when I get home. After seeing the results from yesterday, I am very happy with it.

Bob, do you have your grease mount posted here anywhere? I cannot find it and would like some deets. Thanks!

Question for you guys who made your own live well;

What speed bilge pump are you using? I'm debating between a 500gph and a 360gph pump. The 500 seems like it blasts a lot of water, maybe too much. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Randy

I use the 360 and it works great.

That's what I was thinking. I just picked one up from Ace Hardware for less than $20. Hey, what size/type container are you using? I see everyone using the square/rectangular dog food containers but I like the idea of my bait swimming in circles as opposed to hitting the corners with all those right angles. So I'm going to try out a 3.5 gal bucket with a Gamma lid. Just curious what you're using and any input you may want to share.

Thanks,

Randy

Oh she caught them all. Sometimes Dad has to remind her "Addison where is your bobber?"

i didnt make it but its home made. 360gph pump and 3.5gal bucket.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/baittank.jpg

also made a rod holder that goes on the gator hatch.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090084.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090083.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090085.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090094.jpg

then i cut the bottom tubes to about 1 3/4" and glued a cap to the underside so it clamps the holder to the hatch then extended the top tubes.
sorry for the cell pic
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...0528111256.jpg

How's that system working for you? What do you use for a lid?

it has a screw on lid. im not sure where the guy that had it previous to me got it. but heres one that converts a standard bucket.

http://www.vtarmynavy.com/gamma-seal-lid.htm

easier ordering

http://www.amazon.com/Gamma2-Gamma-G...7412107&sr=8-1

and it works great. kept a 16" bass alive for about 2 hours, probably would have made it all day if we hadnt gone in. and also had it full of sardines (about 25) and kept them alive until i put it in the back of my truck. then they all died in minutes. remember 360 gph is 6 gallons a minute. that will recirculate your bucket twice a minute wich is fine. you could even do a 5 or 7gal. they would only fill to about 4 and 5.5 with the drain holes. but a 360 would be fine for all of them.

That's the lid I bought online today. $8 not bad. I went with a white bucket and lid though to help keep it from absorbing too much heat.

Here you go. http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...t=grease+mount (use the search function with keywords "grease mount")


I have been using this technique for nearly a year now with no problems.


Bob

I picked up a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot, and got a screw on lid from OEX Mission Bay. I too like the bait swimming in circles that's how they school up in the ocean. I'll photo what I did and post it on here.

My New Vittles Vault Bait Tank / Live Well
 

After 4 years with the Shimano Bristlol Bay Bag / live well, it was time for a change.

The Shimano bag was great but it was starting to show its age, the plastic liner had gotten a little soft
and would flex and sway if I had to heavy a rod load, the clear lid had dried out and after some modifications the lively Macks were still occasionally able to wiggle their way to freedom.

What I wanted:
A stiff container that would not flex.
A rod holder that would accommodate the larger butts of a jig stick
A simple and secure lid that was easy to open
A portable rig that could be used on any kayak
A tank with a smooth uncluttered interior
and the ability to change the battery and trouble shoot on the water.

I had thought about other containers, ice chest, buckets etc. and I was almost sold on the smaller Vittles Vaults box but decided to go big. I like what I have seen others do with these containers, and just added a few of my own ideas...

I thought long about a thru the hull pump, then a thru the scupper pump.
but decided on the old standard "over the side" pump for simplicity. Then I wanted to be able to remove the pump and hose for transport,
But decided against an exposed plug at the battery. I like the way the pump stores on top of the tank so I don't think transport will be a problem.
Wrapping the hose back into the tank on the Shimano Tank kinked the hose and I was always frustrated with that.

So here you go:

These are the secret fasteners, they are called Connective Cap Nuts, they are made to work with Shoulder Bolts, sometimes called Sex Nuts:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f.../concapnut.jpg

Side View:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...WELL/cside.jpg

Adding the tie down straps, melted a hole in the strap with a soldering iron, bolted thru the rod holder:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...ELL/cstrap.jpg

Finished strap with hose fitting and wire loom, a continuous length of shrink wrap over the wire harness from the pump into the battery box:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...L/cfitting.jpg

Detail of Pelican battery box install:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...LL/cbatbox.jpg

Top View, I may look into a round hatch mounted to the lid, so I don't need to "unscrew" the lid all day.
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...0WELL/ctop.jpg

Front View, showing Pelican battery box, water proof switch, and 6V / 10Amp battery:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...ELL/cfront.jpg

Back View, used regular rod holders at 4 corners and a 2 inch ABS pipe that I flared with heat gun, then made mounting brackets from a coupler that
I cut in half and slid into position:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...L/P8070040.jpg

Inside View, I got the smooth surface I wanted, I may had a hose to fill the tank from the bottom, I may also add a fitting so I can adjust water level and drain the tank at rear, but for now I wanted to start simple:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...L/P8070037.jpg

In the Trident:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...ELL/cnkyak.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...cnyakfront.jpg

Only took about an hour to build, One visit to Andy to OEX Sunset and one or 2 trips to the hardware store... (BS :doh:)

I like it
I wonder if it will fit in a Hobie some day?:sifone:

When I got my boat, the transducer was also mounted on the back. I questioned that too, but most FF have a WIDE sonar, so it wont really matter of the location. I would rather have mind in the water, reading the Temp, and getting the best reading out of it.

This is the way went about it, work great.

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...-for-2012.html

That's pretty cool looking, nice work

Hali Gaff
 

Firstly, the best advice I've seen on how to gaff a hali was written some time ago by Adi:
http://www.bigwatersedge.com/bwevb/s...alibut+gaffing

However, for me personally, on the kayak I like to float them by horizontally (rather than letting them "hang with their head above their tail") and hit them with an upward, vertical stroke, hopefully hitting them in the brain or, on the other side, in the stomach.

With that in mind, I've redesigned my gaff incorporating two distinct features: and ergonomic handle to keep my wrist from getting tweaked, and a somewhat different shape of the hook itself. For that vertical upward shot with the gaff I think the piercing part of the hook penetrates better being completely straight, and the sharply angled bend seems to keep a thrashing hali from easily sliding off. Also, it's a bit wider in gap than a standard hook so, theoritically, I can get nearer their center line.

Time will tell...

Waterproofing your Front Hatch
 

Well, after getting a few gallons in by the last storm, I went by Andy shop and he told that some of the guys put gaskets around the front hatch to reduce the amount of water getting in.


I did the test by putting the hose against the bow and no water came in the front hatch.

What i did was cleaned the plastic and put down some marine glue and then put the weather seal self stick tape on. It provides a better all around seal.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/5eac7c9f.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/f3bfb5df.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...4/0844b153.jpg

de-hooker
 

Kinda like that idea, simple always works. Didnt have any corks laying around but did take a wire coathanger, bent the doubled hook end through one of those Listarene Pocket Misters to have something to hold in palm. Also, since the mister still works, I will always have a means to freshen my breath after planting a wet sloppy one on that YT, Thresher, or flattie. I find that the hangars from dry cleaners (ones with the cardboard) provide you with two lengths of wire with end hook already formed. Dress up the "twisted" portion with a bit of electrical tape or shrink tube.:hmmmm:

PVC Kayak Cart for Cobra Navigator XF
 

copied design from another blog (Palmetto). Excellent instructions with step by step photos. Works great EXCEPT using a 10.5 Inch top support is a little narrow for this particular boat and positions the cart a little too far aft which is not a problem but having the width about 4 to 6 inches wider would enable you to cradle the hull better and more towards the middle/balance point. Having the cart that far back, the tie straps kept sliding back should I happen to lock a wheel in an obstacle. I solved the problem by taking two tie straps from each side of the axel and ran them up to the bow handle, (nothing to buckle, just hold on to the straps) this keeps them taut and the cart does not slide off. A great little project for a cart that comes apart to store in an "A" hatch. and costs about $33 to build. just a FYI....

well this didnt work out to well. to much wieght and not enough support for the rods as an outrigger....

so.. i did THIS!

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090674.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090675.jpg

much better and more Lowprofile

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...g/P1090648.jpg

free game clip
 

Attachment 5355don't know how good it will be, but just messing around and made one out of sturdy wire coat hangar (the type that have a coating). It is simply bent into loop, hooks on each side, wrapped top loop with electrical tape. It seems strong enough and when weight is on it, the hooks hold firm. Of course you can get a real one for $18.95.

i just did this. used the 7/16 thick and i think 1" wide. makes the hatch sit a little higher and actually compress on the gasket now instead of having a little play. thanks for the idea!

and if anyone is wondering, it takes two 10ft bags and pretty much and entire tube of glue.

Here's some easy ones to keep this thing going... No where near as impressive or useful, but you know know how it goes.

Leader spool - reuse a braid spool, ziptie to frame, and add snap hook = done.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n...hoto%25201.JPG

Rod leash attachment point. Here's one for use when you have the rod out of the holder.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C...0/IMG_0808.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/IMG_0809.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...0/IMG_0812.JPG

Seat pad, yoga mats work great too... and let's face it women have their own hobbies full of equipment that doesn't get used... so you all probably have a few of these laying around too! Goop has held it in place for over a year.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...s800/photo.JPG

Hobie Deep Trays
 

I was interested in purchasing one of those new Hobie deep trays for my Outback but I was getting nothing but bad reviews from those that already had them. Most if not all of the guys that I talked to stated that if to much weight was added or if it was a hot day the tray would give and fall through into the kayak, I decided to buy it anyway and see what I could do to keep it from falling through. After figuring out why the tray would fall through I came up with a little idea.

Step 1
cut a piece of 3/4" PVC to size
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1329099966

Step 2
Goop the hell out of it
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1329099966


It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.

Step 2
Goop the hell out of it
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1329099966


It works great!! I had roughly 3 lbs of lead, my digital scale, digital camera, cell phone and a few other small items in the tray and it never fell through.[/QUOTE]

Good idea George!!! I purchased one on Sat, took it out Hooping on Sunday and it already has cracks in the same places were you added the reinfocement... I am convinced that goop is the new duct tape... I wonder what McGguyver would have done with a little goop and PVC?

:yt::jig:

For me, the biggest problem with the Hobie hatch system is that there is usually water that settles in the seams around the hatch. When I open the hatch, all that water falls on my previously dry stuff.

Has anyone come up with a solution to this problem, (other than the obvious towel option.)

Bob

Drill some tiny holes in the bottom of the bucket/tray. I'll post pics later

I like the idea but I would use something with a higher breaking point, 15lbs seems a little to weak. Why not try some of that black bungee cord?

Oh the braid was 15lb but after I spooled up... I refilled the spool with 30lb hi seas mono for leader. Just pull out your leader length then use the built in cutter. We use a lot of light braid on the east coast but a heavier leader to deal with abrasion.

Kayak Storage
 

Meant to post this a while ago.

This is how I store my kayak

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330646299


The red rope keep is hooked to the two lines, this helps keep the straps from sliding off when I'm lifting the kayak up.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330646299



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330646299



http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330646298

Measuring Device
 

After trying several ways to come up with the easiest way to measure my fish while on the water I finally decided to go out and buy a sticker. Not wanting to under measure a fish I decided to take one extra simple step.

Step 1

Stick sticker on paddle, place the sticker on the side that DOES NOT have the paddle release button

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330736435



Step 2

Place a ring of Goop around the entire paddle right around the 1/2" mark. Slide the paddle drip ring over, as you're sliding it over keep turning the drip ring so that it will evenly distribute the Goop.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330748770




Final product

I placed the ring about 1/2" over to avoid under measuring

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1330748957

George, my inner carpenter is on tilt. You should have set the drip ring 5/8" off the end of the tape to accomplish what you intended. The way you have it set, all of your fish measurements will seem longer than they are by 5/8". I use the same type of stick on measuring tape and have considered fixing my drip ring off of the low end for fish longer than the tape. I centered mine on my paddle and just cut out the release button and cut it along the separation between the two ends. Another couple of things to remember when you affix the sticker is to have your paddle positioned as it will sit on your yak as you use it. My paddle has a right and left side and on it's own rolls to a certain side up based on my blade offset. I have wasted a couple stickers that roll to the underside of my paddle when I try to use them.