Oars
 

This is the exact reason I do not put a motor on my 26' cuddy cabin. It's just bound to break down some day, and the hassle involved with that......oars are just the way to go, always have and always will. And spare oars are super cheap too. CG has them listed all the time.:rolleyes:

How many people know they should carry a tow rope but don't? Further, some ropes are designed to float others don't, but the main point is to have a rope available when we need one.

Another tool that's useful for a Hobie is a phillips screw driver to adjust, tighten or reattach the strings that go to the rudder. Losing rudder control is a pain in the butt too.

I drilled a hole in my plastic screwdriver handle for a nylon wrist strap that can be clipped to a lanyard if I'm working over the water.

Three other items I have found useful are for removing water: hand operated bilge pump (NRS is a good one for about $20), a bailing bucket that I associate with my bait tank (a simple round tupperware that fits through an 8" hatch), and a shamwa for blotting up water in annoying places or using as a wet rag.

Many of these things are multi purpose, so good to have.

At the beginning of summer I was rowing my dinghy pretty hard for exercise/fishing in San Diego bay and snapped an oar lock near the bait barge.

It's a slick dinghy of nice quality, but that sucker won't row without an oar lock. Using a single oar as a loose paddle is pretty useless too. Luckily there was enough wind to sail back to my launch point.

I bought a new pair of oar locks and keep the remaining 3rd oar lock in my gear bag as a backup now.

Lots of these things are not so strong and need to be used gently without exerting excessive force.

Same for Mirage peddles. It's not difficult to apply more force than is good for them.


Live and learn. Sometimes small things make big differences.

I have had the main axle shaft walk on me twice. Luckily, I discovered it before it move enough to prevent removing the mirage drive out of the well. Need to check all the allen set screws periodically -- if they loosen the shafts can walk. Should be able to gently tap the shaft back into position. A spare mirage will fit in the forward hatch of the PA14, but to make it fit, need to leave out the forward liner. For safety, better have the forward liner in place for flood control and prevention. The mirage can limp in as you learned, I was surprised that a broken mast only reduced speed by 1/3. I'll take a Hobie over a paddle kayak any day. The Hobie paddle needs an extension, let us know if you find a good extension.

Anything else you would add to a formalized "mirage drive maintenance checklist"?

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Additional information:

Mirage Drive Lubrication choices
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12577

Mirage Drive Lubrication points
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12576

Mirage Drive Adjustments
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewt...p?f=60&t=12578

Mirage Drive FAQ's
http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewf...9c9c6512c01b74

Seems to me that if I spent that kind on money on a P14. I would expect that Hobie would have better quality control and design a system that would not have these problems. Think with all the problems that seem to keep cropping up it is time for a recall and a Senate investigation.

Trying to make everything idiot proof just makes more idiots.

Hobie design and quality is good, but anything can fail. When we are the "pilot in command" it's our job to think things forward and have options and backups ready for handling unexpected situations.

When it's us and nature, it's up to us to survive. Maybe there's nobody else out there to complain to when things don't go right.

A little common sense is a good thing.

Some pedal bikes cost over 4K and their chains break. It's Bound to happen. Get over it or don't buy one


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That's why I ride a balance bike; less moving parts

No need, I have no problems paddling outback, but have never needed to so far. Never had one thing happen to 3 different mirage drives that I own. And Im not easy on em.

I still can't get past the fact that you have never paddled and had never even used your paddle. Out on the ocean and you're not even sure if you know how to paddle your yak or if the paddle you have even works for your kayak.

I know the PA's are a whole other story compared to paddle yaks and I'm not trying to put you down. However! Especially with you being so concerned with safety, it seems that being able to paddle your kayak to safety when the drive breaks would be number one concern over having the tools to possibly fix a drive while on the water. Anyhow it's good you learned from your experience and hopefully others will benefit

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I have broke two paddles.

Trying to break the mirage drive now:D

That's why I got my wife a 2015 outback. If I ever do a very long trip, I might borrow her brand new mirage drive as an extra :D

Just another hobie bashing


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That's some funny s#*t right there...

the standard hobie paddle is 230 cm
 

Hoibie probably had the outbacks and revos in mind when they decided on a 230 cm paddle, not the pro angler. I was debating on buying a better paddle for my pro angler if an emergency arises, similar to your case. In my opinion a 240 cm would better suited, maybe even larger, if such a thing exists? Is this is you primary kayak? If it is, I would seriously think about doing a paddle upgrade. Also, depending on usage, maybe replacing all the cables every 2 years, maybe less if you are using the kayak frequently. Overhauling the complete drive every season is not a bad idea. Including lubing the drive and also applying Loctite to the proper places like the shaft pins. Save the cables you removed in a parts bag and should be good to go. Or at the least, reduce your chances of a failure. And lastly, a spare drive is an option. If this is in your budget?

I have an Aqua Bound paddle for my Outback that felt too short to be comfortable.

I cut it in half with my chop saw and inserted a wood pole as a spacer, then wrapped the joint and covered the wood with paracord as a finishing touch. It turned out nice and gives me the extra reach and strength that feels good.

Before I locked the wood spacer into position with epoxy, I went out for some test paddles to figure out what length felt the best for me, relative to the hull of my Outback.

It was a nice improvement.

Haha I just had to throw it out there because someone was bound to. I just beat everyone to it.

Heck,
 

You probably saved yourself 200-500$ on a paddle that is primarily just gonna sit there and look pretty.