Short video on rod tip protectors that I added to the Kraken 13.5.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNvhV-v8HOU

Floating livewell from pipe insulation, zip ties, 3 gallon bucket, and screw on top...All parts from home depot for no more than 20.

Kept macs live all day. Easy to put bait in and I drilled holes on top so it would get lighter when lifted on the kayak if I needed to boogie. Enough water inside to keep fish alive before posting up on the next stop. Then tossed it back in the water to float filling up all the way around the holes to give bait more swim space.

No seals ever messed with it. I've upgraded to a diy livewell using a bilge pump...

This would be better in the bay or lakes.

Just a cheap optionAttachment 18886Attachment 18887Attachment 18888Attachment 18889

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Thanks! Thank really great. Might try it.

Very nice. Where did you buy your 2" side mount pulleys?
The Harbor Freight electric hoist looks like a good fit for your project.

Magnetic transducer mount
 

1 1/2" PVC. Magnets from an instant screen.

Great start................however, I can't imagine all of the crap that will get hung up on that rod let alone the rust that it will build after a few trips. Why did you not use galvanized material?

Crap!
 

I didn't think about the crap. The bolt and nuts are 2"x 1/4" stainless. I'm hoping it works. If something hangs up, it will just fall away and my signal will get funky. Then I will re-attach.
slow process shaping the PVC so I hope it works.

Everybody makes these
 

I know everybody has made these to death, but I'm pretty happy with them.

Neat design. So you just slid the outer layer of the paracord onto the weed whacker line?

Yes, I use a strand of the inner core to tie the loop back, then electrical tape, then heat shrink.

Here's a link to a video on how to do this.

http://yakchronicles.com/coiled-para...eash-tutorial/

I haven't posted on here in a while, so I'll share a few things I made. The first is a fly rod holder. I have some extra RAM accessories so I made it for a RAM 1.5" ball mount. I originally used a bungee cord and lashing hook (OEX) to secure the rod to the rod holder. Recently I modified it to have a rotating collar, like the Scotty Power Lock.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps21ayjgeg.jpg

The next are check valves. These will be used in place of the seat plugs in my Hobie Adventure. The parts list: 3/4" PVC male adapter, 3/4" PVC pipe, syringe plunger, and 1/8" SS rod. The video I saw used a 3/4" acrylic ball, but I couldn't find any for the right price. Instead, I found a 6-pack of syringes at Party City for $7. I cut the rod at the indentation, then filed the fins of the plunger so it would slide in the 3/4" PVC pipe. Do not push the pipe all the way into the adapter because you want to allow a gap for more water to pass through. The hole I drilled in the pipe allows the plunger about an 1/8" of clearance from the top. The threaded portion was sawed off above the last 3 threads.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psqapixxaw.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8qrto5eo.jpg

Seat Riser
 

The Adventure/Islander seat is below the water line, so the seat plugs must be in place. When water comes over the side, which is frequent, you end up sitting in a pool of water. I found a video on YouTube (AI Seat Riser) that addressed this problem. He used 2-part foam (8 lb) to build up the seat area about 1.5" - 2". Since the water line is now below the seat, he replaced the seat drain plugs with 3/4" PVC pipes. Watch the video if you are interested in making one.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psmwuypcof.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psedb1iqqk.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstuo82fa3.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8yv8qh6i.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8uq2ns89.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...pstewhoinj.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psdypmbvs5.jpg

In my build, I used the check valves in place of the 3/4" pipes (see my previous post). The keys to remember are: 1) be sure kayak is level, 2) use a release agent on the seat, 3) work fast with the foam since it will set up within 3 - 4 minutes, 4) concrete needs to be rough in order to quickly shape the foam, 5) before painting, use acetone to remove any chemical residue from the foam. A coat of Polyurethane over the paint will make it more durable. Since the seat covers the drain holes, I added channels to the seat riser so the water will be able to drain.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...psahr59m9x.jpg

Due to the seat being higher, the mounting position for the back rest was also raised. I removed the bungee screw-in plugs used for the paddle keepers and replaced them with the D-ring plugs. The backrest is more comfortable clipped here. Plus it is easier to enter and exit the kayak with the shorter straps. The last modification was to secure the paddle bungee. It is now using a part of the Islander (sail) rigging.

I tested it out on a snotty day on the bay. As was expected, a lot of water came over the side, however, it drained out just as it was designed. The only negative was the hardness of the seat. I'll have to go back to sitting on my kneeling pad. Since I no longer need it under my seat (to raise me up), I'll now use it on top of the seat.

What does a 72in tent pole shrink wrap a pvc cap tread and one eye have in common
 

Bingo home made bait rod

Leaders/Rigs
 

I find myself changing out a rig from time to time while out there. What to do with those rigs and leaders? You certainly dont want the tangling up or getting snagged on other things - like your leg, feet, pedals... So, I simply spool them up on these. Its a nice way to keep them all arranged, undamaged, easily re-usable, and readily available.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is my original battery connection
 

There aren't many like it , cause this one is mine . :D . It has seen many a battery . The first replacement I bought was similar in dimensions and capacity which was rated 7 amp 6 Vlt. I got that battery from fry's electronics for relatively cheap . Yes, 7 amp . That was a long time ago. Of course hobie has upgraded since then to a standard equipped 10 amp battery. Tbe current battery I am using is a Bioenno LIPO4 12 amp. This battery will last me all day and not slow on flow of pump,

Finishing up
 

What I've realized about these connections, is that they are bulletproof. Even with little care or attention, I have not had any problems. This connector is probably from an 09-10 outback, which was my first Hobie kayak. Yes, I started out on the Dark Side. Anyways, after having so many issues with my fishfinder, I decided to try this connector for my battery power source. I ordered a couple sets of connectors from a dealer and head them shipped. The complete package lists for about 20.00$. The package includes male/ female ends and pre-greased wire caps that even have a dust cap for the back of screw on wire connector . I have never seen this before. To prevent and issues, I also put some marine goop to insure a water tight seal at connection . This should give trouble free operation for more that a year of hard use. Ideally the life of your fish finder. Easily achievable if you do like me, and replace your unit every 6 months. :D.

Some pics
 

Battery in water tight container is for my hobie tank and is s 12 amp Lipo. This battery will run all day.

Guess rest of pics did not come through
 

Standard

Caps
 

If wires

Battery box
 

For bait tank

This what I'm experimenting with
 

For fish finder . Keep in mind I'm running 7" screen that draws close to 1 amp per hour approximately. I'm using Lipo battery to reduce weight instead of carrying 10 lb battery. This battery is water resistant and has solid connectors. This battery is designed for race bike applications.

Whoops
 

This pic belongs in fish report section

Well
 

At least one or two pics are straight . Smh . How do I fix that ?

How has this been working for you? Does the tent pole cause line abrasion.

old nasty jigs/new nasty jigs
 

Scraped off the old paint, foil tape, repainted, then resin.

My Contraption
 

Looking at all the ideas for battery boxes for fishfinders, I decided to build my own. I started with the math to figure out what size battery I needed for the time I needed on a fishfinder. I then looked at other accessories I might want to add. Livewell pump added more amperage need. Stern light for night ops added even more. bow lights If I so desired added even more. And finally, since I hoop net off the yak, those lights would require even more.

I started thinking of other accessories that could be added, and decided some sort of power distribution box and switches were called for. In order to be able to have any length of time with any heavy power accessories, I knew I might need a sizeable battery. The battery I settled on was a Duracell 14F2 14Ah AGM battery. Too big for any of the little Walmart boxes I see on here, and I didn't want to spend the money for a Pelican box just to cut holes in it.

I originally thought about putting the battery below decks (through the very small hatches mine has), and running switches through the skin of the yak. However, I didn't want to cut into the yak, and as we have 2 of these kayaks, it would be nice to be able to interchange my kit.

So, short story now long, a $5 Walmart Plano ammo box (has o ring lid), some switches, waterproof connectors, and a bus bar from Amazon, and now I have a portable power distribution box with switches that I can run up to 5 12v accessories off of, provided I put the correct plug on the end of the wires. I could even mount the FF to the top of it, but I probably won't as the box can be portable 12v power for a wide variety of things (I could even go to an outdoor party and run music, lights, and other things off the contraption.

Shown setting in Kayak well for size sake. When I actually take it out, it will be strapped down.

*slow clap* Kudos to you, sir. That battery box is so awesome, and so doomed to corrosive failure ;)

My rig uses a single voltage divider to split a 12v battery into 6v for the bait tank and 12v for the fish finder. Long story short, even that's too much wiring and I bought a 6v battery so I can rewire the whole system in a simpler fashion.

Unless you goop over all those switches that thing is going to short out in like one trip. Those ammo boxes aren't really that waterproof, either. I don;t mean to be a total hater, because that's an elegant and beautiful rig you built, but it's going to be a pain in your butthole.

I'll add some goop
 

Thanks for the tips, I'll make some refinements and see if I can negate some of that, as I really don't want to be running 5 batteries for 5 systems, and I like a challenge!

I've got a few ideas to shore up the boxes rubber seal from my diving kit (bigger O-rings and silicone keeps water out of some of my stuff at 120 foot depth, I think it can handle the surf) and some sort of "over" rubber around the lid such as an innertube or something.

The switches will be the weak link. I had gooped where the switches went in, and they have the rubber seals and covers, but I'll add extra goop to help out and see if I can shore it up a bit.

I'll update after I have corrected and taken it out this weekend, as well as a couple weeks after that to see how she is holding up at that point.

Goop seems to work
 

Well, based on your advice, I gooped the poop out of the switches (not so pretty now), and I decided to use a liberal amount of dielectric grease on the box seal. Took it out, and while it didn't get a full dunking, it got pretty wet. Appears to be no moisture whatsoever inside the box. Gotta give it a few more days to check for any moisture or corrosion, but appearts to be holding up pretty well. After use, have decided to mount the ff to the top of the box (assuming it passes the longer term corrosion test).

Goop is great!!!!!

Update: 16 days later and nary a bit of moisture or corrosion. I'll keep inspection, grease and regoop as needed as a critical pre op check and it should be fine. Now to build out the light rig.

Made a bait tank out of a Marine Cooler and copied the workings of the hobie bait tank using the scuppers for water intake and drain. I chose this cooler since it fits snug in the back of the Pro Angler and already had knotches I can put the bungie cords. I also rigged a stadium seat to the back and works perfect for passengers.

Noob Questions
 

Nice setup, I'll be pinching some of your ideas as I look to build one for myself.

Quick noob questions:

The black bulb inline to the inlet pipes. Is that so you can manually add water should the bilge pump not have power?

The pipe over the top/side: does that have holes in the underside for the water to flow in?

Its to prime the tank, instead of having to use forward propulsion to push water up the inlet under the scupper.

Yes, its a primer so I can turn it on when im stationary.

Slap Shot Hockey Gaf
 

Making gafs for a couple friends...I use my broken composite /carbon fiber ice hockey sticks and they work awesome!! Grips are fantastic.
Nothing fancy just solid, light & functional... :)
Some pics-

Float?
 

??

DIY kayak cart!
 

So I got off a little early and decided to follow the link that was posted for the DIY kayak cart. It came out perfect! Simple easy to follow instructions and the final price was around 60$ I couldn't be happier.

Heres the link in case you missed it

http://palmettokayakfishing.blogspot...52011.html?m=1[/PHP][/PHP]

I have a sherwood gaf (made from real wood) that does float. My guess on the graphite is that they will fill with water and sink.

What did you use to make the white grips?

^
I didn't make them...purchased from Hockey Giant / Hockey Monkey.
They sell them for about $7. They are pre made. Glue on w/ hot water.
Different colors, sizes & lengths.
I'm sure you could use them on any gaff / shaft.
:cheers1: